原创《南非盛宴》
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Touching down, it is impossible to mistake that you he arrivedanywhere in the world other than Cape Town. Dominating the skylineis the impressive sight of Table Mountain complete on this occasionwith its ‘table cloth’, a swathe of fluffy white clouds partially obscuring itssummit.
Undeniably, the defining emblem of the city is this landmark whichsurely makes Cape Town one of the most glorious and spellbinding citiesin the world.
A half-hour drive from the airport took us into the heart of thebustling V&A Waterfront, probably the most visited and populardestination for overseas tourists.
Al fresco restaurants and shops line the quaysides whilst buskersserenade passing shoppers, giving it a perpetual atmosphere of convivialcarnival fun.
At the far end of the harbour, the imposing five-star Table BayHotel offers luxurious accommodation and magnificent views of theTable Mountain to the east and the infamous Robben Island, whereformer President Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years, to thewest. It is impossible to find a better location in the city.
The Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company was set up 88 yearsago and has transported over 26 million visitors to the summit. Votedas one of the new Seven Wonders of Nature in 2011, it is the only onelocated in an urban setting.
The views are magnificent, and recommended to accompany aglass of ‘MCC’ bubbly at the Table Mountain Café. Locally producedusing the ‘Method Cap Classique’, this South African sparkling wine isa worthy competitor to its more illustrious European equivalents and atabout S$12 a bottle, represents outstanding value.
Back down on terra firma, head back into the city for a specialgourmet dining experience. It takes some forward planning to securea table at Africa’s top ranked restaurant, but it is worth it. Mention thename Luke Dale Roberts anywhere in South Africa and you will get thesame admiring reaction.
This British-born, Swiss-trained chef has been revolutionizingfine dininghere for the past 11 years. After a stint working in Singaporeand South Korea, he settled in Cape Town and opened his own awardwinningrestaurant, The Test Kitchen in 2011.
With only 30 seats, booking is essential and while tables areailable, the unique attraction, and possibly the most coveted seat in thehouse, is the Kitchen Bar. Four high seats on the kitchen pass where Lukeworks his magic in front of guests makes this both a gastronomical as wellas high sensory experience.
The full Test Kitchen Gourmand Dining Experience has eachof the nine courses accompanied by top wines from the Cape. Theunfolding menu leads from one incredible taste to another.
Accompanying each plating are swathes of Cabernet Sauvignonand Riesling, together with local varietals, Voignier and Chenin Blanc,each paired with a course, and complementing the food perfectly. Fornon-drinkers there is a clever Tea Pairing Menu with unusualblends suchas ‘Lemon Bush’, ‘African Red’ and ‘Flaming Pink’. The Test Kitchen iscertainly a destination in itself, rather than a stopover.
Wine and golf lovers will appreciate Cape Town for the fact thatit is a mere 20 minutes drive from the V&A Waterfont to ConstantiaValley, which is a beautiful area of vineyards and mountains that ishometo some of the earliest wine farms in South Africa. Set amidst thestunning scenery is Steenberg Golf Club.
Designed by South African golf architect Peter Matkovich whomakes full use of the surrounding natural features, the course windsthrough pine trees, vineyards and a rearticulated mountain stream thatcunningly comes into play on several holes. There is also a number ofman-made water hazards, most notably on the 7th, a fabulous 180 yardPar 3 which requires a tricky tee shot to a semi-island green protected inits entirety either by sand or water, or both.
The signature hole is the Par 3, 14th which features a sensationalmountain backdrop and a narrow green that is over 70 yards long. It isalso completely ringed by six big bunkers. From the tee, it is difficult to seejust how extensive this monster of a green really is so careful club selectionis a priority if you don’t want to lee yourself with an awfully long putt.The 18this a long 550-yard Par 5, which not only has the
aforementioned stream snaking its way down much of the fairway butalso a green that is well guarded both front and right by a lake. A fabulousbut tricky finishing hole.
Adjoining this delightful golf course is the equally delightful fivestarSteenberg Hotel that dates back to 1682 when a young Germanwidow called Catharina Ustings established what would become theoldest winery on the Cape Peninsula.
In keeping with its 17th century heritage, many of the originalstructures he been lovingly restored and are now National HistoricalMonuments including the original winery that now houses the
appropriately named Catharina’s Restaurant, the first restaurant in SouthAfrica to be awarded five stars by the country’s touri grading council.Hing sampled the culinary delights of a menu that includedSmoked Crocodile Tail and Roasted Duck Breast with a celeriac andtruffle puree, I’d say those stars were well deserved.
Just as I was beginning to think the gourmet element of this tripmight prove to be more impressive than the golf, I arrived at ArabellaGolf Club about an hour’s drive from Cape Town. Another PeterMatkovich design, the course is situated in theheart of South Africa’sCape Floral Kingdom close to the town of Hermanus.
As a championship course in its own right, and past host of theNelson Mandela Invitational Celebrity Pro-Am, it is over 7,000 yards longfrom the back tees and rated amongst the top 10 courses in the country.This may he something to do with its spectacular setting alongside theBot River lagoon (with its array ofrare and endangered wildlife) and theKogelberg Mountains.
The highlights undoubtedly come on the finishing stretches of boththe front and back nines. The eighth is a superb Par 5that offers greatviews from its raised tee to a large green set against a panoramic backdropof hills and river. With marsh lands, water hazards and sand traps allguarding it, the ensuing approach shot is not for the faint-hearted.
Neither is your tee shot on the 9th, a short Par 4 where you mustnot get too greedy when firing over the lagoon onto a narrow landing area.Coming in, the final three holes also offer wonderful views of the countrysideand lagoon with the 17th being a tricky Par 3 that lees no room for error.The 560-yard par 5, 18th also requires certain skill to negotiate the verynarrow fairway that runs adjacent to the water on its right.
When you finally drag yourself away from this beautiful golfcourse, a visit to nearby Hermanus is a must. Seafood is the order of theday, with locally caught species such as the deliciously subtle Kingklipserved along side Tiger prawns, mussels and oysters. From the centreof town, there is a 12km cliff path that is renowned for providing someof the finest landbased whale watching opportunities on the planet.The gentle giants come in close to shore to give birth before making thearduous journey south again.
At the end of another short drive through more stunning mountainscenery, I found myself in the panoramic setting of the Berg River Valley -home to the town of Franschhoek. Originally settled more than 300 yearsago by French Huguenots escaping religious persecution, this picturesquetown is very popular with tourists, and often referred to as ‘The gourmetcapital of the Cape’, proudly boasting some of the finest restaurants in thecountry. La Petite Ferme, Reubens, Le Quartier Fran?ais are but a few.A few miles outside Franschhoek amid more vineyards, orchards,
olive groves and fields of cultivated lender is Pearl Valley Golf Club.Opened in 2003, it is only the second course in Africa that JackNicklaus has put his name to but it has become a ‘must-play’ venue hereand recently ranked 7 within the South African Top100 list.
Flatter than Arabella, and understandably with more of anAmerican feel to it, there is so much sand and water here that a bucketand spade might make a handy addition to your golf clubs. The secondhole may only be a short and relatively straight Par 4 of around 400yards but with a drive that requires a nerve jangling carry over water andal ake down the entire right hand side of the fairway to the green, it is agood indication of what is in store.
With massive sand traps that sometimes seem to completelyenvelop a fairway, equally huge water hazards that entirely shape a holeand the occasional ‘Beware of Snakes’ sign, there is always something tobe wary of on this course.
Once you he stopped admiring the Simonsberg hills in thebackground, the 18th is another great finishing hole and one that is justsitting there waiting to ambush you. From the tee, you cannot see thelake that guards the green of this stroke index one Par 4, but catch yourdrive just right and you will hear that card-wrecking splash.
If your ‘A-game’has deserted you, you can always drown yoursorrows at one of the many wineries, vineyards and wine farms thatinhabit this part of Cape Winelands. All of them offer some kind ofwine tour or tasting session onfoot, on horseback, by vintage car or evenin a hot air balloon.
My final stop over was in nearby Stellenbosch, the second oldesttown in South Africa and renowned for its historic Cape Dutchbuildings. Affectionately known as‘Eikestad’, (the town of oaks)this is abeautiful town that is really worth a visit.
Home to the oldest wine route in the country, the region ispeppered with vineyards offering a bewildering range of wines. A standoutestate is Rust en Vredewhich translates from the Afrikaans language as‘Peace and Quiet’.
The next day’s 18 holes were a chance to walk off the diningexcesses of the trip. De Zalze Golf Club, a parkland course, lies on theoutskirts of Stellenbosch town. Measuring around 7,000 yards fromthe back tee samid (more！) vineyards and mountains, this is a goodwalk with views to die for. In fact, a stroll down the 4th fairway has abackdrop of the Stellenbosch hills behind, while in the distance, theCape Peninsula range and back of Table Mountain looms.
De Zalze, with its array of large bunkers, water hazards and theBlaauwklippen River running through, is a tricky course that demandsaccuracy.
The feature hole is the Par 4,13th. At just around 330 yards from the飛機降落之際,開普敦是世界上少數不會讓你產生飛錯目的back, the hole features a series of island tees sitting out in a lake fromwhich youneed to carryover to a narrow left dogleg fairway. Negotiate that little scenariosafely and you are left attempting an equally tricky approach shot to a waterand sand guarded green.
It is one of the best holes in South Africa and presents a reason for the2006 World Amateur Team Championships to be hosted here. Or, maybeit was the food in the halfway hut. Not the classiest dish to sample butnevertheless, an offering of mince and fried eggs on toast is by all accounts alocal golfing delicacy in these parts.
Many people veto the idea of going on a golfing holiday to SouthAfrica because of the perceived cost and the obvious length of flight time.Whilst direct flights can be pricey, once you arrive there, he other things, thegood things - food, drink and green fees - are offered with outstanding value.So, go ahead, se that date for this trip of a lifetime, for I am sure, youwill probably be coming back for more.
地這種錯覺的地方.壯觀的桌子山（Table Mountain）躍然於地平線之上,而這次,還鋪上了「台布」——山的頂端被一條帶狀的雲霧縈繞著.
毫無疑問,這城市的象徵就是這個地標,它讓開普敦成為世界上其中一個最壯觀和最有吸引力的城市.
從機場駕車半小時就到了市中心的V&A Waterfront,這可能是海外遊客打卡做多和最受歡迎的目的地.碼頭周圍是一排排的戶外餐廳和商店,購物者們穿梭期間時還能欣賞街頭藝人的小曲,這裡永遠籠罩著歡樂的嘉年華氣氛.
在港口的一頭,矗立著壯觀的五星級酒店桌子灣酒店(Table Bay Hotel),這裡不僅有豪華的住宿,更能欣賞東邊桌子山的壯麗景觀,還能看到西邊聲名狼藉的羅賓島（RobbenIsland）——這裡是囚禁了南非前總統納爾遜．曼德拉（NelsonMandela）18年的地方.城內沒有比這更好的地理位置了.
桌子山高空索道公司在88年前建立,已經運送了超過兩千六百萬遊客登頂.在2011年被評為了新世界七大自然奇觀之一,而且是當中惟一一個位處城市之中的.
這裡的景色壯觀,推薦你在The Table Mountain Café來一杯泡沫MCC.這是南非的氣泡酒,是用當地的「氣泡酒方法（Method Cap Classique）」釀造,完全能與歐洲比它著名的競爭者相媲美,大概12南非蘭特一瓶,物超所值.
回到陸地,向著城裡去,來一個特別的晚餐.這是一家南非的頂級餐廳,需要提前預定,但非常值得.在南非任何一個地方提起Luke Dale Roberts,你都會收到仰慕的回應.
出生於英國、受訓於瑞士的廚師已經在這裡為了美饌奮鬥了11年.在新加坡和韓國短暫工作一段時間後,他來到了開普敦定居,2011年開了這家屬於自己的獲獎無數的餐廳,The TestKitchen.
餐廳僅有30個座位,預定是必須的,如果可以選位,最吸引的、全餐廳最讓人垂涎的就是Kitchen Bar的位置——在廚房通道上的四張高腳椅.Luke就在客人面前演繹他的魔法,讓人同時滿足味蕾和感官的享受.
全套的Test Kitchen用餐體驗包括九道菜,配上兩款開普敦產的頂級美酒.展開的菜單帶出一道又一道不可思議的味道.
每一道菜都配上卡本納沙威濃和雷司令葡萄酒,還有本地的葡萄品種Voignier和Chenin Blanc,每一道菜都配一款酒,讓佳餚更完美.如果是不喝酒的朋友,可以選擇香茗菜單,上面都是些特別的名字,例如「檸檬林（Lemon Bush）」、「非洲紅（African Red）」和「粉紅烈焰（Flaming Pink）」.The TestKitchen本身就是一處目的地,而不是一個中途休憩之所.
葡萄酒和高爾夫愛好者青睞開普敦, 是因為離V & AWaterfont不到20分鐘車程,就是康斯坦夏谷（ConstantiaValley）.這地區遍地是美麗的葡萄園和高山,也是南非歷史最悠久的酒莊所在地.而斯滕貝格高爾夫俱樂部（Steenberg GolfClub）就是坐落在如此美景之中.
球場由南非的高爾夫建築師Peter MatKovich設計.Peter充分利用了周邊的自然景觀,球場沿著松樹、葡萄園和一條山溪蜿蜒——這條山溪巧妙地出現在好幾個洞內.這裡有好多人造的水障區,最明顯的就是7號洞.這是個聲名狼藉的長180碼的3桿洞,需要嚴謹的發球才能到達半島果嶺,而且果嶺都有沙坑或者水,或者兩者一起保護著.
簽名洞是標準桿為3的14號洞,它以震撼的高山為背景,狹窄的果嶺足足長70多碼,而且完全被六個大沙坑環繞.從發球台開始,就很難判斷那魔鬼般的果嶺有多寬,如果你不想給自己留下一記長推,那球桿的選擇真的很重要.
18號洞是一個長550碼的5桿洞.這裡不但有前面提起過的溪流沿著球道蜿蜒,還有一個前面和右邊都被湖泊保護著的果嶺.這是個讓人難以置信、但又非常嚴苛的結束洞.
與這個美麗的球場接壤的是同樣美麗的五星級酒店斯滕貝格酒店.這是1682年一位叫Catharina Ustings的德國寡婦建立的,後來成為了開普半島（Cape Peninsula）最古老的酒莊.
為了保護這個17世紀遺址,很多原來的結構都得到的修葺,現在已成為了國家歷史古跡（National Historical Monuments）,包括原來的酒莊被恰如其分地命名為Catharina´s Restaurant.它是南非第一家獲得國家旅遊局級別審定委員會頒發五星級的餐廳.
在品嘗了招牌菜後,包括了煙熏鱷魚尾巴和烤鴨胸配芹菜和松露濃湯,我不得不說那五星水準保持得太好.
就在我開始覺得這次旅程中,美食元素帶給我的印象要深於高爾夫的時候,我到達了阿拉貝拉高爾夫俱樂部（Arabella GolfClub）.它大約離開普敦1小時車程,是另一個Peter Matkovick的設計.球場位於南非的開普植物王國（Cape Floral Kingdom）的,靠近赫曼勞斯鎮（the town of Hermanus）.
這作為一個錦標賽球場,過去曾主辦過曼德拉名人職業業餘邀請賽（Nelson Mandela Invitational Celebrity Pro-Am）.從後方發球台算起長度超過7,000碼,是南非的十佳球場之一.這與其沿著博特河（Bot River）環礁和Kogelberg Mountains而建有關,景色醉人.
球場的亮點無疑是來自前九和後九的結束洞.8號洞是一個超級5桿洞,從升起的發球台觀看景色一流,巨型的果嶺抵著山河全景.果嶺有沼澤、水障和沙坑的全方位守護,攻果嶺一桿絕對不能掉以輕心.
9號洞的發球也一樣不能掉以輕心,這是個短4桿洞,發球必須不能太貪心之餘,卻要飛越環礁到達狹窄的著陸區.轉到後九,最後三洞同樣能欣賞鄉村和環礁的絕妙景致.17號洞是個嚴苛的3桿洞,不容一點失誤.長560碼、標準桿為5的18號洞同樣需要一定的技巧才能克服非常狹窄且右側全部與水障接壤的球道.
戀戀不捨地離開這個美麗的高爾夫球場後,去一下附近的Hermanus是必須的.當天的菜單就是海鮮,全都是本地產的,美味細膩的鱈魚,加上虎蝦、貽貝和生蠔.在這個小鎮中心,有一條12公里的懸崖小徑是著名的陸地賞鯨的好地方.這溫和的龐然巨物會靠近岸邊生產,然後努再力地往南游去.
再駕駛一小段,又是一幅更為壯觀的山景,我正置身於BergRiver Valley的全景中——Berg River Valley是Franschhoek小鎮的所在地.在300年前法國的胡格諾派教徒為逃離宗教迫害而到此定居.這個風景如畫的小鎮非常受遊客歡迎,經常被譽為「開普敦的美食中心」,裡面有好幾家南非最好的餐廳.La PetiteFerme, Reubens, Le Quartier Fran?ais就是其中幾家.
離Franschhoek幾英里以外,是更多的葡萄園、果園、橄欖樹林和薰衣草田.而Pearl Valley Golf Club就是置身於這裡.
俱樂部在2003年開業,是積．尼高斯在南非設計的第二座球場,現在這已經成為了這裡「必打」了,它在最近的南非百佳球場中排名第七.
它比阿拉貝拉平緩,更富美洲風格,有很多沙坑和水障,感覺要把小鏟和紗筒掛到球包上.2號洞是一個又短又直的4桿洞,長約400碼,不過發球需要飛越佔據了整個球道右邊的水障和湖泊,才能到達果嶺,這對接下來的狀況是個很好的預示.
巨型的沙坑有時會把球道完全包圍,而有時巨型的水障也會完全主宰著球洞的造型,還會不時看到「小心有蛇」的警示牌,總之在這個球場上總會有各種事情需要小心.
在18號洞,再次停下來欣賞背後的Simonsberg山脈.這是另一個一流的結束洞,一個讓你坐等挨打、難度係數為1的4桿洞.從發球台上是完全看不到守護著果嶺的湖泊,不過一旦發球稍微偏右,就會聽到記分卡破碎的聲音.
如果你被一場高爾夫蹂躪得體無完膚,那就隨便選一家酒莊,用美酒安撫受傷的心靈吧.這地區是開普敦的酒區,坐落著很多葡萄園和酒莊.它們全部都提供葡萄酒之旅或者品嘗之旅,還可以選擇步行、騎馬、乘坐老式汽車,甚至是乘坐熱氣球來參觀.
我的最後一站是到附近的Stellenbosch,它是南非第二古老的小鎮,這裡有著名而歷史悠久的開普敦荷蘭建築群,這被親切的喚作「Eikestad」（橡樹小鎮）.這真的是一個值得一去的美麗小鎮.
這裡是南非最古老的酒區,裡面全是葡萄園,讓你沉醉在酒香中.當中出色的酒莊可數Rust en Vrede,從南非語翻譯過來,意思是「平和與安靜」.
第二天的18洞正好讓我有機會步行,以減輕這次行程中拼命吃的後遺症.De Zalze Golf Club是個園景球場,坐落在Stellenbosch小鎮的郊外.從後方發球台算約長7,000碼,置身於葡萄園和山脈之中,是個非常適合步行的球場,一路美景相伴.事實上,漫步4號洞球道,後面是Stellenbosch山,遠處是開普半島,桌子山的背影若影若現.
De Zalze設置了大型沙坑、水障,而且BlaauwklippenRiver一路相伴,是個嚴苛的球場,需要很高的精準度.
特色洞是標準桿為4的13號洞.從後方發球台算才約300碼,這洞的特色在於設立在湖泊上的島型發球台,發球時需要飛越一段距離到達狹窄的左狗腿球道.假設能順利著陸,面對的是一記同樣嚴苛的攻果嶺擊球——果嶺有水和沙坑守護著.
這是南非其中一個最好的球場.說到能吸引2006年世界業餘隊制錦標賽在這裡舉辦的原因.或許是中途的美食.並不是高級食物,不過據大家所說,夾著肉碎和煎蛋的吐司是區內的高球美食一絕.
很多人說道來南非度高爾夫假期的時候就覺得貴,而且飛行時間長.是的,直飛可能有點貴,但一旦到了這裡,其他的東西、好東西—食物、飲品和果嶺費全都非常划算.
所以,一生中必須來這一回,我保證,你會想一來再來的.
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